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Georgia. Kakheti: an expected light.

30 images Created 12 Jun 2016

Going towards the south-east corner of Georgia, the landscape makes a sudden change.
The colour green is replaced by the arid Samgori steppe that stretches away to a hilly horizon.
A washed out blue of the sky, as in the cupola fresco of the Assumption by Correggio into Parma Cathedral, is the background to the landscape and an unexpected light surrounds and transfigures everything.
An almost treeless panorama is encircled by white peaks.
A huge well-irrigated Alazani valley lays in the centre of the Kakheti. Lovingly tended grape-vine, sprawling across dozens of kilometres in either direction. At the end of this valley lays the border with Muslim Azerbaijan. Best Georgian wine come from the Alazani valley.
The cultivation showed no sign of the brutal history associated with this area.
The invading Mongol and Persian armies had marched through it many times during the past centuries from the north to the south.
Strolling down this delight land, it may still hear the cries of the nationalists that have scourged Georgia in the its long history of inter-ethnic struggles and that continues to flare Abkhazia and South Ossetia in this recent times. The consequences of this social tragedy are still so vivid in the hearts of refugees forced to flee from two breakaway provinces and whose souls being haunted by recollections of their lost country.
Kakheti suddenly seem a very fragile place again.
Belonging to a forgotten past, lost Udi people, one of the most ancient native population of the Caucasus, came to Kakheti, about 80 years ago, from the village of Vartashen, in the Muslim Azerbaijan.
They settled in the village of Zinobiani where they finally found a quiet resort to give a meaning to their lives with the strength of Christian religion.
Churches and monasteries punctuate the blissfully land of Kakheti, images of a celestial world reflect on the earth.
Wandering in the countryside, it may caught the breath of ancient spirits of this land that were pursued in the rural poetry by Georgians like Akaki Tsereteli, Alexander and Ilia Chavchavadze and as Pushkin nostalgically wrote in a 1828 poem:

I beg you please sing no more
The songs of Georgia,
For their mournful sounds
Recall for me
A distant life
A distant shore
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  • IMG_0665_GEORGIA. Gurjaani. 2011. A boy of the local parish church during the harvest of grapes in the fruitful Alazani valley, in the region of Kakheti. Gurjaani is one of the most important centers for the production of wine in the country.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0001.jpg
  • IMG_1020007_GEORGIA. Tsinamdzguriantkari. 2011. An internal displaced person seen at the collective center. He was forced to flee from Tskhinvali, the capital of the breakaway province of South Ossetia, after the war with Russia in 2008. Refugees continue to face harsh living conditions with little hope of ever going home.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0002.jpg
  • IMG_0790_GEORGIA. Nikosi. 2011. A group of boys seen at the local parish church. Nikosi is located less than a kilometer from Tskhinvali, the capital of the breakaway province of South Ossetia. This area has been the stage of intense firefights during the 2008 war against Russia, now the tension remains high along the “de facto” border. Many of the inhabitants of the area are still living beyond the last Georgian checkpoint, in a "no man's land" between Georgia and South Ossetia.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0003.jpg
  • IMG_1010978_GEORGIA. Tsinamdzguriantkari. 2011. Internal displaced persons seen at a meeting with officials of the Georgian government. They continue to face harsh living conditions with little hope of ever going to home in South Ossetia.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0004.jpg
  • IMG_0597_GEORGIA. Gurjaani. 2011. Boys of the parish church taking a rest after harvesting in the fruitful Alazani valley, in the region of Kakheti. Gurjaani is one of the most important centers for the production of wine in the country.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0005.jpg
  • IMG_1020177_GEORGIA. Tsilkani. 2011. Boys playing football in a training ground near a new settlement along the road to Gori. The settlement houses about four hundred families coming from Tskhinvali and Akhalgori, in South Ossetia.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0006.jpg
  • IMG_0334_GEORGIA. Zinobiani. 2011. A man seen in his car. The Udis are one of the most ancient native people of the Caucasus and are direct descendants of the linguistic tradition of the Caucasian Albania.<br />
About two hundred Udi people live in the village of Zinobiani, in Kakheti. The Udi are Christian Orthodox and practice agricultural and livestock breeding. They came to Georgia 80 years ago from the village of Vartashen in Azerbaijan.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0007.jpg
  • IMG_0365_GEORGIA. Zinobiani. 2011. Udi people seen at their house. Udi people practice agricultural and livestock breeding.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0008.jpg
  • IMG_0255_GEORGIA. Zinobiani. 2011. An elderly Udi seen in front of his house. The Udis are one of the most ancient native people of the Caucasus and are direct descendants of the linguistic tradition of the Caucasian Albania.<br />
About two hundred Udi people live in the village of Zinobiani, in Kakheti. The Udi are Christian Orthodox and practice agricultural and livestock breeding. They came to Georgia 80 years ago from the village of Vartashen in Azerbaijan.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0009.jpg
  • IMG_0100_GEORGIA. Dodo Gareja. 2011. A monk seen at the rock-hewn monastery complex (Lavra in Georgian) on the slopes of Mount Gareja, in the south of Kakheti, about 60-70 km south-east of the capital Tbilisi, near the border with Azerbaijan. The complex includes a dozen of cells and a refectory hollowed out of the rock face. The monastery was founded in the sixth century by the Syrian monk Dodo, one of the 13 Syrian Fathers who founded monasteries in the regions of Kartli and Kakheti.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0010.jpg
  • IMG_0934_GEORGIA. A new settlement near Gori. 2011. Brother and sister seen in their home. They were forced to flee with their family from Tskhinvali, after the war with Russia in 2008. Their father works in the restoration of the church of Nikosi. He used to be a restorer in South Ossetia, their mother can’t find a job.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0011.jpg
  • IMG_0584_GEORGIA. Gurjaani. 2011. Harvesting grapes. Gurjaani is one of the most important centers for the production of wine in the country.<br />
The vineyard is in the fruitful Alazani Valley, in Kakheti region, 415 meters above sea level and 110 km east of Tbilisi. The vineyard produces a red wine, the Saperavi and a white wine, the Rkatsiteli.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0012.jpg
  • IMG_1010959_GEORGIA. Tsinamdzguriantkari. 2011. Internal displaced persons and an officer of the Georgian government seen at the collective center. They were forced to flee from Tskhinvali, the capital of the breakaway province of South Ossetia, after the war with Russia in 2008. They continue to face harsh living conditions with little hope of ever going home.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0013.jpg
  • IMG_1020042_GEORGIA. Tsinamdzguriantkari. 2011. An internal displaced person steers a wheelbarrow carrying a baby and a bag of flour inside a refugee camp. Refugees continue to endure harsh conditions with little hope of ever going to home in South Ossetia.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0014.jpg
  • IMG_0269_GEORGIA. Zinobiani. 2011. A street of Udi village.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0016.jpg
  • IMG_0846_GEORGIA. A new settlement near Gori. 2011. Internal displaced persons are repairing their home. Most of the IDP come from Tskhinvali, the capital of the breakaway province of South Ossetia.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0015.jpg
  • IMG_0222_GEORGIA. 2011. Along the road to David Gareja, a rock monastery (Lavra in Georgian) on the slopes of Mount Gareja, in the south of Kakheti, about 60-70 km south-east of the capital Tbilisi, near the border with Azerbaijan.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0017.jpg
  • IMG_0630_GEORGIA. Gurjaani. 2011. Boys of the parish church during the harvest of  grapes in the fruitful Alazani valley. Gurjaani is one of the most important centers for the production of wine in the country.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0018.jpg
  • IMG_0594_GEORGIA. Gurjaani. 2011. A boy of the local parish church during the harvest of grapes in the fruitful Alazani valley, in the region of Kakheti. Gurjaani is one of the most important centers for the production of wine in the country.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0019.jpg
  • IMG_1020065_GEORGIA. Tsinamdzguriantkari. 2011. An internal displaced person standing in front of the collective center. She was forced to flee from Tskhinvali, the capital of the breakaway province of South Ossetia, after the war with Russia in 2008. Refugees continue to face harsh living conditions with little hope of ever going home.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0020.jpg
  • IMG_0453_GEORGIA. Bodbe. 2011. A boy with his classmates visiting the holy spring of St. Nino, near the monastery of the saint who Christianized Georgia in the fourth century AD. The saint's relics are buried in the church of the monastery, one of the holiest places of pilgrimage in the country.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0021.jpg
  • IMG_0306_GEORGIA. Zinobiani. 2011. Inside the village. The Udi came to Georgia 80 years ago from the village of Vartashen in Azerbaijan.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0022.jpg
  • IMG_0676_GEORGIA. Gurjaani. 2011. The harvest of the grapes in the fruitful Alazani valley, in the region of Kakheti. Gurjaani is one of the most important centers for the production of wine in the country.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0023.jpg
  • IMG_1010916_GEORGIA. Alaverdi. 2011. The wine cellar (marani in Georgian) of Metropolitan David of Alaverdi, Telavi and Tusheti. The vineyard is in the fruitful Alazani valley, 415 meters above sea level and 110 km east of Tbilisi. The vineyard produces a red wine, the Saperavi and a white wine, the Rkatsiteli.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0024.jpg
  • IMG_0347_GEORGIA. Zinobiani. 2011. A man seen in his wine cellar (marani in Georgian). Udi people practice agricultural and livestock breeding.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0026.jpg
  • IMG_1010715_GEORGIA. Tbilisi. 2011. Before the liturgy in the Cathedral of Sameba. The faith is one of the most important elements of the Georgian culture.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0025.jpg
  • IMG_9961_GEORGIA. Dodo Gareja. 2011. A monk seen at rock-hewn Georgian Orthodox  monastery complex (Lavra in Georgian) on the slopes of Mount Gareja, in the south of Kakheti, about 60-70 km south-east of the capital Tbilisi, near the border with Azerbaijan. The complex includes a dozen of cells and a refectory hollowed out of the rock face. The monastery was founded in the sixth century by the Syrian monk Dodo, one of the 13 Syrian Fathers who founded monasteries in the regions of Kartli and Kakheti.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0027.jpg
  • IMG_0410_GEORGIA. Zinobiani. 2011. A woman seen in the church located on a hill close to the village, according to the Georgian tradition. Udi people are Christian-Orthodox.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0028.jpg
  • IMG_9890_GEORGIA. David Gareja. 2011. A rock-hewn Georgian Orthodox monastery complex (Lavra in Georgian) on the slopes of Mount Gareja, in the south of Kakheti, about 60-70 km south-east of the capital Tbilisi, near the border with Azerbaijan. The complex includes hundreds of cells, churches, chapels, refectories and living quarters hollowed out of the rock face. The monastery was settled in the sixth century by the Syrian monk David, one of the 13 Syrian Fathers who founded monasteries in the regions of Kartli and Kakheti.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0029.jpg
  • IMG_0163_GEORGIA. Dodo Gareja. 2011.  Monks meeting friends. The monks live in a rock-hewn monastery complex (Lavra in Georgian) on the slopes of Mount Gareja, in the south of Kakheti, about 60-70 km south-east of the capital Tbilisi, near the border with Azerbaijan. The complex includes a dozen cells and a refectory hollowed out of the rock face. The monastery was founded in the sixth century by the Syrian monk Dodo, one of the 13 Syrian Fathers who founded monasteries in the regions of Kartli and Kakheti.
    CEOLONI_GEORGIA_2011_IMG_0030.jpg